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From the street, Tama gives little away. The uncluttered, abreast bluff — floor-to-ceiling glass, apparent gray accurate steps, aloof abundant copse that it doesn’t feel too abstract — suggests an uber-cool wine bar, or article a bit exclusive. That couldn’t be added from the truth.

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For added than a decade, Tama has been the abode to appear for one of Tokyo’s added abnormal menus, a different and beautiful amalgam that it calls Ryukyu-Chinese. It’s a alloy of Okinawa specialties, such as ashitebichi (pig’s trotter) and chanpurū (stir-fried tofu, meat and vegetables), interspersed with Chinese abstract like yodare-dori (“mouth-watering chicken”). There’s boilerplate abroad like it in the burghal — and absolutely no restaurant confined Okinawan aliment with such a faculty of appearance and absorption to quality.

Owner-chef Fumihiro Tamayose was built-in and aloft on the alien Okinawan island of Kuroshima. But one of his grandmothers hailed from Shanghai, so he grew up bistro a mix of the two cuisines. Those are the flavors and capacity that affirm his affable at Tama.

Blind call: Owner chef Fumihiro Tamayose poses with his bootleg chōzume Chinese sausages that adhere at the advanced of Tama’s accessible kitchen. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON

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Not that you’d assumption from the chaste interior. There are no dragons or lion-dogs, no red-and-gold hangings or calligraphy, no accomplishments music of either ethnicity — aloof the accepted jazzy, late-night Tokyo soundtrack. But you may atom one betrayal clue: the strings of bootleg Chinese sausages, accepted in Japanese as chōzume, that adhere from the beam in advanced of Tamayose’s accessible kitchen like a plump, porky bean curtain.

Briefly broiled in the oven, anniversary sausage is broken and served with slivers of abashed white negi (Welsh onion) and a agilely appealing dip of Okinawan miso. The meat is ablaze in acidity and texture, acclaim aromatic, and so aperitive that it’s the aboriginal affair you should adjustment on arrival, forth with your antecedent beer.

While you’re at it, you should additionally ask for a alternative of Tamayose’s zensai starters. A archetypal confined ability accommodate slices of chāshū pork and strands of brittle mimigā (vinegared pig ear), forth with some algid eggplant, a beat of the abode potato bloom and a array of shima-rakkyō (Okinawan shallots).

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The bowl is a apple of the chef’s influences: two cuts of pork, one a Chinese staple, the added an Okinawan specialty; a advantageous confined of vegetables; and an izakaya pub standard. All able with a acumen bigger associated with Japanese acreage cuisine than the boilerplate Okinawan diner.

After accession in Tokyo, Tamayose formed at a acceptable kaiseki (Japanese multicourse) restaurant. He additionally spent three years belief shōjin ryōri (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) at a temple in Kamakura. Now he devotes allotment of his card to a area he calls “Tama’s vegetable cuisine,” including salads and balmy dishes, alongside that abiding favorite, Okinawan umi-budō (sea grape) seaweed.

Later he became arch chef at an izakaya, and that is the appearance of dining that he espouses at Tama, admitting a genteel, affable adaptation of the genre. The dishes are advised for sharing, and it’s account exploring the base of Tamayose’s repertoire.

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Among the standouts are his broiled wonton, aerial bales of minced pork topped with a affluent agreeable soy-based sauce, and kiramangin, a stir-fried bowl of blubbery noodles that’s a specialty of his home island. Additionally attending out for specials such as tempura chiragā (pork face skin), addition island delicacy.

This, obviously, is aliment to be commutual with aqueous refreshment. Chinese liquors and acceptable Okinawan awamori would be the accessible avenue. But the beverages of best for best bodies actuality are sours, abnormally alloyed with shīkuwāsā, the Okinawan lime, or wine. Tama has hundreds of bottles to accept from, arrayed on shelves forth its walls.

Back back Tama opened in 2007, it became one of the Tokyo’s hot places to adhere out, abnormally amid accessory celebrities and the flush late-night dining set. These canicule the aristocracy accept confused on, but the aliment charcoal as accomplished as ever, and its tables are aloof as in demand. Long may it run.

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There is additionally a annex of Tama in Marunouchi, abutting to Tokyo Station, that is accessible circadian for cafeteria and banquet (Bio Wine & Aliment Tama, Brick Square B1F, Marunouchi 2-6-1, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005)

Fujimoto Bldg. 2F, Shibuya 2-3-2, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0002; 03-3486-5577; tama2007.jp; accessible 6 p.m.- 3 a.m.; bankrupt Sun. (and casual Mon.); starters from ¥350, chanpurū from ¥850, chōzume sausage ¥600, kiramangin noodles ¥900; abutting base Omotesando; smoker accustomed by accessible kitchen; above cards accepted; Japanese menu; a little English spoken

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